By PHIL JARRATT
A FEW years back Layne Beachley and I had the pleasure of attending a “waterman week” at a luxury resort in the Maldives, along with numerous representatives of all aspects of the surfing life.
While the conference was primarily concerned with oceanic environmental issues, there was also a focus on surfing’s capacity for spiritual healing.
Of the many inspirational people who shared their experiences that week, none was more impressive than Bethany Hamilton, the surfer from Kauai’s North Shore who lost an arm in a shark attack, taught herself to surf again one-armed at the very highest level, and became an inspiration to a generation.
I’d met Bethany on a few occasions at functions and was always impressed by the way she made no apologies for her stump. It was what it was, and she made it a proud, bold statement.
Surfing with her that week in the Maldives, and watching her push young Muslim girls into their first waves with her good arm, I came to appreciate what a courageous young woman she is.
Film-maker Bryan Jennings was the first to bring Bethany to worldwide attention, and in more recent times he has introduced us to another inspirational surfer who is blowing people’s minds with his courage and humility. Now 22, Brazilian Derek Rabelo was born blind. His father, a keen surfer, had prayed that his unborn son would one day become a surfing champion, and had even named him after Derek Ho, Hawaii’s first world champion.
As Derek grew up around the Brazilian surfing lifestyle, he decided that against all odds, he would learn to surf. Perhaps he might not be a champion, but he would set an example for all handicapped people who felt unable to pursue their dreams.
At 17 he launched into a three-year training program that would eventually see him not only learn to ride waves, but to ride some of the most dangerous waves in the world, including Hawaii’s Banzai Pipeline, and tow in to mid-ocean monsters with big wave hero Carlos Burle.
Along the way, Derek has impressed the very best surfers in the world. After surfing with him at Pipeline, Kelly Slater said: “Many surfers with sight do not venture out there even after they see that others can do it. With no sight, you’re literally in the moment of what the feel is right at that second, and that is all Derek had as he surfed Pipeline.”
Producer Bryan Jennings’ new film, Beyond Sight captures Derek’s unique surfing ability and his passion for life that inspires both surfers and non-surfers alike, and Derek’s exhibition surfs over the past month in Sydney, Newcastle and the Gold Coast have drawn huge crowds. And next week Derek will be visiting Noosa as a guest of the Cricks Noosa Festival of Surfing.
Derek will paddle out for an exhibition surf at 5.30pm on Wednesday, March 11, and later host a short video presentation and answer questions about his incredible journey. Whatever you do, don’t miss out on meeting this inspirational surfer.
