Trevor Pepys reviews Gusto
“Sir, I can assure you that the best restaurants in the world serve sardines this way. Ortiz sardines are Portugal’s finest, and if you ever dine out in Paris or New York, this is how they will be served.”
This was more or less Trevor’s introduction to the new owner of Gusto’s on Gympie Terrace, Frenchman Tim Lepoutre, although he had saved him from a nasty slide on the wet tiles outside half an hour earlier. Now we were both looking at the offending object, a tin of Ortiz sardines with its lid curled back, sitting in the middle of a large white plate.
To be fair, Tim delivered this lecture in impeccable Franglais and with a broad smile, but Trev is not used to being lectured by the people who serve him in restaurants, even when he is comprehensively in the wrong, as he was on this occasion. For a start, had he read the menu properly instead of foaming for food, he would have seen the words “140g tin” right after Ortiz sardines on the appetizers list, and would not have questioned the offering, which was delicious, but more about that later.
On the other hand, Trev did know a little about Ortiz artisanal tinned fish, produced not in Portugal but along Spain’s Basque Coast on the Bay of Biscay, one of his old stomping grounds. But over many fine meals in San Sebastien, Bilbao, Santander and Oviedo, he had never been served sardines in a tin. Perhaps, like drinks served in jam jars, this was a hipster trend. He made a mental note to Google it when he got home, and this is what he found.
Yes, from Paris to New York, and all outposts of cool in between, sardines are being served in tins. Lord help us, trendy tapas bars in places like Berkeley, California, with cute names like Bar Sardine, are – or were, pre-Covid – devoting themselves almost entirely to the art of opening a can and plonking it on a table at a 500 percent markup. As my friend TB, the corporate coffee tycoon, says: “There’s more money in it than cocaine!”
So here at the Oviedo end of Gympie Terrace, Tim and wife Chloe have, since July, been transforming the revered (with good reason) and decades old Gusto into an oasis of cool. Longevity in restaurants is so rare that, like dogs, it should be measured with a multiplier of seven, which makes Gusto nearly 150, but the old girl, with the help of the new owners’ recent makeover, looks great, a simple but charming interior with a big deck facing the river.
The biggish menu is also pleasingly simple, with no other concessions to hipster trends that Trev could spot, but to be on the safe side, the missus and I decided to spread ourselves liberally over the appetizers and entrees, beginning with the aforementioned Ortiz sardines ($18) and half a dozen freshly-shucked oysters ($4.50 each), big, juicy suckers that melted in the mouth. Helped along with some watermelon salsa and Trev’s trademark waving of the Tabasco bottle.
Once I got over the fact that I would not be eating grilled sardines, the tinned Ortiz were delicious, spread on sourdough with onion salsa, and washed down with a couple of glasses of good and dry Italian Ruggeri prosecco ($11).
The next round we paired with the equal cheapest bottle of wine on the list, a Torres de Casta ros¨¦ ($39), a Catalan drop which was just a little sweeter than Trev’s preferred Provencal version from just over the hill, but the price was right. And those of you who have been following Trev’s house wine campaign will know that $39 in a restaurant as good as Gusto is a steal.
Back to the tucker. We shared a Moya Valley chicken terrine ($22), some crispy duck spring rolls ($22) and a twice-baked French onion souffl¨¦ ($23). The terrine, on charred ciabatta, was sensational. The spring rolls could have been a bit more shredded ducky, but were pretty good. Only the souffl¨¦ disappointed – in a word, bland.
This was more than enough food for two people, so we declined dessert and raced home to rinse our palates with a decent Provence light pink.
The verdict: Tim’s lecture on world food trends aside, Trev was more than happy with this first taste of the new Gusto. Good fresh dishes served simply, with the odd touch of flair here and there. It’s not cheap, but it’s not outrageous either. And locals should note, there are lunch specials with a glass of wine included.
Gusto Restaurant, 257 Gympie Terrace, Noosaville. Phone 5449 7144.
