Having explored the tourist meccas of the South Island of New Zealand (Queenstown and Christchurch) I thought it was time to venture further afield and head to the more hidden gem that is Dunedin in the Southeastern region of Otago.
Dunedin often likened to a mini-Edinburgh (the Edinburgh of the south), complete with Scottish vibes, the four seasons in one day weather and even it’s own castle. And that was our first stop on our ‘Discover Dunedin’ itinerary – Larnach Castle perched high in the hills above Otago Harbour.
The surrounding Peninsula is a hilly slither of volcanic land, abundant in flora and fauna – a place to see Sea Lions and Penguins and one of the few accessible places where Albatross nest.
Larnach Castle is like stepping back in time and swapping hemispheres. Commissioned in 1871 by local character William Larnach, the castle is a gothic masterpiece with plenty of stories to tell. The property was derelict for quite some time after William’s passing with a New Zealand couple – the Barkers – buying it in 1967 and bringing it back to life.
The library and dining hall host long table dinners showcasing all the South Island has to offer. While the tastefully decorated stable and lodge accommodation offers breathtaking views across the harbour. There’s also a garden café and exquisite grounds to wander making the castle a true ode to the past.
Following our tour we check into Distinction – a downtown hotel in the centre of the city before we head out again to admire the colourful murals that adorn the streets. We wander the high street and devour a classic cheese roll at Good Oil Cafe, a locals juice at Buster Greens and a hearty pub meal at Speights Ale House. We are getting the sense that this city is all about bakeries and breweries.
The next day we plan a trip on the Taieri Gorge Train. The train leaves from the Dunedin Railway Station – one of the city’s most prominent landmarks. Built in 1906 it’s famed for its renaissance architecture. The train takes us across Otago’s sweeping countryside, with towering viaducts and the gushing Taieri River below-while the onboard storyteller recounts tales of a gold rush era.
As the sun sets over Otago Harbour, we take a short trip to the surf beaches, stopping at St Clair for Cocktails at Piccolo, Pasta at the Esplanade and Dessert at Sorello-housed in an iconic beachfront location. We stroll along the promenade and admire the locals as they brave the newly opened (heated) saltwater pools.
The next day we jump on our trusty e-bikes and take on the newly opened bike and pedestrian path that follows the harbour to Port Chalmers, a quaint port town. From there we book a water (bike) taxi across the harbour to pretty Portobello, passing Quarantine and Goat Island along the way.
Lunch is served at the local Portobello Pub, fresh Blue Cod and chips washed down with a local Speights ale and Central Otago wine, which really hit the spot. After lunch we cycle up the road to a new farm gate café, Augustine, for the tastiest of scones with lashings of berry jam and local cream.
We take in the sights of the University of Otago – billed as a leader in education it ranks in the top 200 Universities in the world. There’s a vibrant student population living on the outskirts which has attracted cafes like Strictly Coffee – a roaster with one of the best brews around.
We take a bespoke tour to the tip of the Otago Peninsula with local guides, Clearwater Wildlife Tours. Walking through a working farm to the rugged clifftops and pristine beach of Cape Saunders, spotting sealions and yellow-eyed penguins along the way.
A trip to Dunedin isn’t complete without a visit to the Otago Farmers Markets, held each Saturday in the carpark adjacent to the railway station. We taste Dunedin Craft Distillers Gin made from bread scraps and sample a delicious Short Black chocolate from local makers Ocho (Otago Chocolate Company).
Rug up and discover the delights of Dunedin, it’s the ideal stopover to explore the South Island, with direct flights from the East Coast it’s fast becoming the next ‘go to’ New Zealand destination.
EAT-
Larnach Castle dining
Portobello Hotel
Piccolo St Clair
Noble Dunedin
PLAY-
Speight’s brewery tour
Clear Water Wildlife Tours
Tairi Gorge Train
Otago Farmers Market
STAY-
Larnach Lodge
Distinction Hotel
