Because when I started surfing there was no such thing as a surf report, other than the weather map in the newspaper, which was dead to us unless it showed a big fat low pressure system forming off our coast, because of all that, I was a fairly late adopter when technology brought us modern swell forecasting.
But oh boy, for the past 20 years or so I have been totally addicted to the dark art, often stacking up no more than my meagre knowledge of weather systems and a gut feeling against the cumulative wisdom of the website experts whom I imagine pacing up and down in front of a hologram of the Coral Sea, occasionally pointing at something using a stick produced from the pocket of a white scientist robe.
Of course the couple of swell forecasters I know are nothing like this, and they spend most of their days surfing, but it’s human nature to be suspicious of what you don’t really understand.
My obsession with swell forecasting began back in the ‘90s when the estimable Mike Perry would, for a few shekels, fax you the latest forecast (if you’re under 40, ask your dad), but it stepped into high gear over the many years when I was chiefly responsible for the running of the Noosa Festival of Surfing, and also in the eyes of some for the provision of perfect waves throughout the event.
This fearful responsibility, however real or imagined, made me start examining every known source of oceanic information available about a month out, and turned into a frenzy of hourly checking of military-generated WAMS and NOAA charts about a week before the first heat was due to hit the water.
As I write it is five days before the first heat, and prospects from two promised tropical depressions have weakened, one just fizzling and the other changing direction and heading out of our swell window aimed at New Zealand, but with much less oomph that Gabby.
This is a bit depressing for festival week, but fear not. Many times I’ve seen it all change around again two days out, and hopefully by the time you read this, that will have happened.
Meanwhile, the world’s biggest surf festival will charge ahead regardless, and thankfully some of the first surfers in the water on opening day won’t give a toss how big the waves are. I speak, of course, of the VetShop Australia Surfing Dogs, who for 11 years now have embarrassed organisers and some of surfing’s biggest living legends by drawing a far bigger crowd to the beach than any human surfer (except perhaps the GOAT) could hope for. And it’s not a gimmick, I tell you! It’s an actual contest for best wave, with a trophy for the master and a bone for the little fella doing the real work.
Old mate Naomi from VetShop tells me: “This year’s line-up features some old favourites, like three-time winners Hugsley and Jonesy, as well as some new pups on the block. Watch out for Dane, who will be shredding the waves with gorgeous Bu the staffy, or Banjo the ball obsessed kelpie, who will be showing off his skills with owner Chris Oakley. And let’s not forget Poppy the groodle, or Anna the chocolate border collie who will be riding the waves with owner Zane and little human Koa.”
What’s not to love about that?
The dogs are on at First Point from 3pm Saturday, but be warned, get there early if you want a prime viewing position.
The traditional opening ceremony, welcome to country and paddle-out will follow at 4pm, with the beach bar on the sand rocking until 8pm. And from there it’s surfing from sunup to sundown for the next eight days.
I snuck a look at the talent lineup on LiveHeats, and as well as recent regulars and favourites like Kaniela Stewart and Mason Schremmer (via Noosa) from Hawaii, and Avalon Gall and Kaimana Takayama from California, it’s great to see old favourites Jared Mell and Taylor Jensen from California back in the draw. On top of them, and a huge array of homegrown talent, led by current world longboard champ Harrison Roach, there are also strong contingents from Japan and Korea, underlining the fact that our international festival is back.
Plenty happening off the beach too, with Noosa Surf Museum hosting several nights of entertainment, a charity dinner with longboard stylists Belinda Baggs and Lauren Hill, and a great night of music from Headland and images from the Surf Film Archive at The J. If you missed out on the lift-out program in last week’s NT, look for it at the beach bar with all the details you need.
Kirra is Queen of the Point
If you recall last week’s Brine, because of deadlines I left you dangling regarding the results of the Queen of the Point girls-only comp in San Juan, Philippines, with our gal Kirra Molnar, president of the Noosa World Surfing Reserve, having surfed the final of the pro division but waiting on results to be announced at the presentation ceremony.
Well, you can breathe easy now, because Kirra is the queen, taking out an exciting final at MonaLisa Point (hope I’ve got that right) from second placer Hiroka Yoshikawa.
By Kirra’s account, it was a really fun event, bringing together longboard stylists from Australia, the US and all over Asia.
