Odesa, pearl of the Black Sea, is a relatively small city of just over a million people but a major seaport and a free centre of culture and historic architecture since it was founded by Catherine the Great, Empress of Russia, in the late 18th century.
What is less well known about the former Soviet Union port and now third largest city of Ukraine, is that it is a small but growing hub of surfing. Or at least it was until the Russian military started bombing the hell out of the place a week ago. “We had the first attack on 24 February, the day the war started,” Vasiliy Kordysh, president of the Ukrainian Surfing Federation told Magic Seaweed website.
“Most of the big cities of Ukraine were attacked by the rockets from Russia. I woke up at 5am from my mother’s call, she said, ‘the war has started’.”
Searching for images of the devastation of Odesa last weekend, I found instead an uplifting video of members of the Ukraine Navy Band, standing in front of the sandbagged city square, playing a defiantly funky version of Don’t Worry, Be Happy as they waited for the inevitable attacks to begin.
This typifies the brave and undaunted spirit of the people of Ukraine, from President Zelenskyy down, on display since this hideous war began a month ago, but in fact, evident behind the scenes since the Russian insurgency began eight years ago.
And nowhere more so than the free port of Odesa, which has had to fight for its freedom since foundation.
But let’s get back to the surfing.
I’ve surfed all over the Med and been amazed at the strange little coves and corners that waves can get into, but none would be as strange as Odesa, tucked into the north-western corner of the short-fetch Black Sea. Nevertheless, the relatively balmy summer climate – air 23 degrees, water 20 – has been attracting seaside holidaymakers for generations, and in the past decade or so, surfers have discovered that when wind and tide are in harmony, Odesa’s Arcadia Beach and its adjacent piers can produce surfable waves.
As SurferToday.com (no relation) recently noted: “Located in a small southeast-facing bay, the beach break occasionally morphs into a point break thanks to the several piers built in the area. The Ukrainian holiday and health resort channels low-to-medium-period wind swells, creating average, shoulder-high waves. It is the go-to location for those who want to have fun on a shortboard, longboard, bodyboard, and for beginner surfers. The local crew also runs night surfing sessions, which have already provided small barreling waves.”
Arcadia Beach is the home of the Ukrainian National Surfing Championships, run by the Ukrainian Surfing Federation which last year became the 109th member of the International Surfing Association (ISA) and made its debut in the ISA World Surfing Games, with three athletes competing in El Salvador.
When the invasion began a month ago, the ISA banned Russian surfers from its events in support of Ukraine.
Let’s hope that a free and independent Ukraine emerges from the current hostilities and that the small but hardy band of Odesa surfers can get back to business as usual.
Longboarders fire up state titles
Following last week’s coverage of Noosa surfers dominating the front end of the Queensland Festival of Surfing at Coolum, our longboarders did the same thing at the back end.
In the state titles open divisions, Kaiden Smales took out the men’s longboard, and Jayben Poy and Smales took out second and third in the logger.
In the women’s logger Kirra Molnar and Emily Lethbridge finished first and second, then reversed the order in the longboard. In the age divisions, Josh Constable won the over 40s longboard, Hayden Swan the over 55s, and Peppie Simpson the over 60s womens.
The juniors saw Noosa clean up everything, with Landen Smales taking out both under 18 longboard and logger, while Mia Waite did the same thing in the girls’ divisions. Fantastic results all round for Noosa surfing in general and Noosa Mal Club specifically.
Speaking of the Smales’ brothers, two weeks ago I incorrectly reported (I blame Live Heats for posting the wrong intitial) that Landen Smales won both under 15 and under 18 junior divisions at the Noosa Festival of Surfing. In fact, Landen won the 15s and Kaiden the 18s, in which Landen finished second. So many Smales in the mix, you can see where it gets confusing.
Anyway, the talented young surfers will soon be on their way to the Australian Indigenous Surfing Titles at Bells Beach in May. Noosa Today reported last year on the impending trip south for the prestigious event, just before it became a Covid cancellation. Fingers crossed the titles run smoothly this year, and that the Smales lads bring home a trophy or two.
FOOTNOTE: This just in, and more glory for Noosa, with Noosa Boardriders taking out the prestigious Kirra Teams Challenge on the Gold Coast last weekend, their first victory in the event since 1998.