I love the idea of bodysurfing, have done since I watched my friend Mark Cunningham kick into a monster set wave at Second Reef Pipeline back in the ‘70s, half twist down the face and go straight into an el-rollo as he planed into the barrel.
Well, memory is a funny thing, and so is technical terminology, but I can assure you that what Cunno did on that huge wave nearly half a century ago defied logic. Mine at least. Of course he was the best bodysurfer in the world at the time, and remained so for decades, honing his technique by swimming out in treacherous seas to save lives at Sunset Beach and Ehukai Beach Park, where he was chief lifeguard.
I had a few cracks over the years, but to be honest, I was useless. Fortunately my enduring friendship with Mark meant that I got to see a few of the best strut their stuff at various breaks in Hawaii and at the Newport Wedge in California. We even introduced a body-surfing event to the Noosa surf festival on a couple of occasions, with Mark flying in to preside, of course, and at its peak Bali’s Deus Nine Foot and Single event had some hilarious womp comps, with Noosa’s Harrison Roach, Matt Cuddihy and Doc Bexon often starring.
All of this is fresh in my mind because I’ve just been watching a bunch of clips from last week’s International Bodysurfing Association World Finals, held at body surf central, Point Panic in Hawaii. A fast-breaking right with sections custom-made for wompers, Point Panic is close enough to shore to give you a good look at the amazing stuff the surfers are pulling off, sometimes difficult to see if you’re watching an offshore reef with the naked eye. The downside is that it runs right into a bunch of rather ominous rocks below a cliff.
No problem for our Jack Lewis, the top Australian qualifier for the Hawaiian Worlds and Australasian team captain, who put in some stellar performances right through the rounds, just missing the final to finish equal fifth. Not bad for an old bloke who just turned 40! Sydney’s Dylan Kelly finished fourth in the final, taken out by France’s Alix Schorsch. Ally Zillman was the highest placed Australian woman, also finishing equal fifth.
Tewantin-based Jack, an all-round waterman who won the ’23 Coolum Wedge event and the world qualifier from ironman Ky Kinsela, saw Ky turn the tables on him this year, but he still had the points on the board to secure his spot at Point Panic. Next year, the World Finals is set for Coolum, where Jack would have to be considered a real chance for the world title.
Smales wails at Indigenous
Meanwhile, a bit closer to home and in much chillier water, Noosa surfing bros Landen and Kaiden Smales made another huge impression at this year’s Australian Indigenous Surfing Titles at Djarrak/Bells Beach, Victoria.
Surfing Australia reports: “Landen Smales (Noosa Heads) made history by dropping two perfect 10 point rides on his way to claiming victory in both the Mens Longboard and Junior Boys divisions. Landon showcased his exceptional talent, delivering standout performances. In the Open Longboard semi-final, Smales chose the Rincon walls to demonstrate his skills. Utilising the entire length of his board, he walked up and back between the nose and the tail multiple times before executing huge drop knee carves to score a perfect 10 ride. This gave him a convincing win and momentum heading into the final.
“Before competing in the longboard final, Smales switched to his shortboard for the Junior Boys final. Incorporating his longboard style, Smales flowed seamlessly through the Rincon walls again. Smales then tapped into the innovative side of the shortboard criteria. Taking off on a critical section, he built up speed before launching into a huge lofty air reverse, earning his second 10 of the day and an 18 combined total to secure the win.
“Smales went on to dominate the longboard final against Ben Cole (Yamba), Rhys Collins (Red Hill, Vic), and his brother, Kaiden, who finished a close second.
‘For my first 10 on the longboard, the wave was just perfect and gave me so many opportunities to nose ride and carve my way through,’ Landen said. ‘In the shortboard, that 10 was pretty sick too. The wave also gave me so many opportunities, and I got to tee off some sick snaps and then finish with a big air.’’
The event, held three days, was a vibrant mix of competition and cultural celebration, showcasing the top Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander surfers from across Australia. Well done again, Landen and Kaiden!