By Hollie Harris
So this is Christmas
And what have you done
Another year over
And a new one just begun …
John Lennon, Merry Christmas (War Is Over) 1972
Hard to believe it’s getting on towards half a century since the late great John Lennon penned that carol of hope. Well, guess what? War ain’t over. In fact with Trump’s brand of insane brinkmanship pushing the envelope in several parts of the world, it seems like we’ve never been so close to what used to be known as “mutually assured destruction (M.A.D)”.
So what are we going to do this Christmas? Forget about it, party hearty and go surfing!
Speaking of which, youngest grandson Hamish graduated from Surf Grom school last week, performing a coffin ride in celebration of this huge achievement. I pushed him into a few dozen waves the day before the Grom course began and put my neck out so badly, I’m still in agony. But I was still there to watch from the beach as he made great leaps forward in balance and confidence over those few days.
When I was Hamie’s age riding a surfboard was something I could only dream about. Boards weighed so much in those days there was no way I could have carried one down to the beach, and there was no such thing as a surf school. So I was nearly twice his age before I experienced that magical moment of pushing into a sparkling wave, standing up and watching the ocean rush past under your feet.
That’s about 55 years ago now, and I can still remember the thrill of the glide as if it happened yesterday. For Hamie, it did happen yesterday – or at least only last week – and I hope, like me, that he’ll remember the moment with a smile for the rest of his life.
Myths, legends and goodwill at Halse Lodge
What a wonderful lazy Sunday afternoon we had at Halse Lodge last weekend, celebrating the creation of the Noosa World Surfing Reserve. With the trees in the courtyard keeping the warm sun off our heads, a lively crew showed up for the Stone and Wood “karma kegs” and entertaining sets from the youngest and the oldest bands in Noosa.
The Myths (all aged 10) kicked off proceedings with a seriously rocking set, that included their crowd favourites Wasteland and Come Together, as well as an encore of Wipeout – a song that is older than their parents and which they learnt especially for the occasion. Bass player Angus put so much energy into his performance he blew up his guitar!
Later in the afternoon, we were joined by The SandFlys for a beautiful long set of cruisy surf tunes. These mature-age troubadors are such good players, but for me their appeal lies in the sheer joy they get out of making music with their mates. It’s intoxicating, and by sunset last Sunday, a lot of people were intoxicated. (By the mood, I mean of course.)
Not only was it a hugely entertaining afternoon, but thanks to Halse Lodge, Stone and Wood, Absolute Providores and Markris Foods, we raised enough funds to keep the new World Surfing Reserve rolling towards dedication day.
Fire on the mountain
Believing that the worst of the California fires was over, I sent a text message a few days ago to our friends Shaun and Carla Tomson in Montecito, just outside Santa Barbara, just to make sure they had emerged unscathed.
The 1977 world champion sent back: “I guess the fire on the mountain behind us didn’t hear that it was over! Evacuated last night.”
As I write, the Tomsons and young son Luke are still homeless, one family in so many whose lives have been disrupted completely this Christmas. Of course, disruption is preferable to destruction, and many have lost everything. Still, the trauma of waking every day not knowing if everything you own has survived the night is its own kind of terror.
Anyone who has experienced an Australian bushfire knows how horrific the power of fire can be. But I don’t think anything can really compare to the inferno unleashed over the dry arroyos of the California coastal mountains, fanned by the hot and fierce Santa Ana winds.
This Christmas we’ll be thinking of so many friends across the Pacific, camped out and facing an uncertain immediate future.
Finally, to the readers (both of you), thanks for your ongoing support and for laughing at my silly jokes. More of the same coming at you in two weeks’ time.
