It’s an exotic fruit that originated in South America centuries ago, and is now used and enjoyed around the world. ERLE LEVEY takes a deeper look at the tomato, and a man who has devoted much of his life to growing them.
“But he gave me a ute and stuck me in an apartment at Bargara, right on the beach, and I thought: ‘Oh man. What could be better than this?’’
How do you like tomatoes … baked, fried, as a pizza topping or in a sauce?
Then again, there is nothing quite like one picked straight off the vine.
That only comes after months of care, patience, frustration and expectation.
You can spend a lot of time nurturing them, watering them, making sure they get plenty of morning sunshine and that they are protected from thunderstorms, the hail, the frosts and excessive heat.
Yet when it comes time to pick that precious fruit – the one that has been through so much with you – and take the first bite … there is nothing quite like it.
This is an intrinsically satisfying moment – after working your way through winter it’s a matter of enjoying what you have grown.
These reflections on the humble fruit – the French call them the pomme d’amour, or the Love Apple – came about as part of a five chefs dinner to support world-travelled tomato grower Peter Seghers and his wife, Dory.
The unusually long period of rain since November has impacted Peter and Dory’s famous Noosa Reds tomatoes.
An institution in the Noosa region for the best part of two decades, the tomatoes are hydroponically grown without the use of chemicals. Instead there is a focus on natural methods for pest and disease management.
Noosa Reds are known for being full-flavoured from being vine ripened, and the short time from hand-picking to the plate make them popular with chefs and residents.
They are a brand that restaurants proudly display on blackboards and menus.
The five chefs dinner at Park and Cove Restaurant in Peppers Noosa Resort saw Andy Wilcox from Peppers Noosa, Matt Golinski from aroMATTic, Andrea Ravezzani from Park & Cove, Shane Bailey from Noosa Boat House, and Glen Barratt from In Pursuit of Pastry, creating a five course menu with tomatoes as the theme.
Guests at the sold-out event were invited to dress in red for the night.
Celebrity chef Matt Golinski said the evening was to celebrate Noosa Reds tomatoes and the dedication of the growers.
“We wanted to do something like this that highlights how tough it is as a small producer to survive these days,“ he said prior to the night.
“It’s kind of a reminder for everyone that we need these people in our lives. They make our lives richer and we get to eat better food because they’re out there.“
Pete and Dory of Noosa Reds have been hit hard in recent years, with fungal disease wiping out much of their tomato crop.
The dinner was about acknowledging how much Peter and Dory in particular have done for the hospitality industry.
“It’s about making them know that we really appreciate the hard work they put in to give us good products for our restaurants.’’
For Andy Wilcox, the dinner was a small way in which to pay Peter and Dory back for their commitment to growing fresh and tasty tomatoes.
“I’ve been using Noosa Reds since I was just starting out at Jasper’s – now Rococo – in Hastings Street. And that was a long time ago.
“There’s not many Noosa producers. Peter’s the heart of soul really. This is a way in which we can give back to the farmers.’’
As well as reflecting on the joys of growing tomatoes, the night was also a good time to talk about how people enjoy this exotic fruit, brought to Europe from South America by the early explorers.
San Marzano tomatoes from Italy are widely regarded as the best for cooking.
In his guide to Italian food regions, actor Stanley Tucci visited the birthplace of San Marzano tomatoes – the Agro Sarnese Nocerino. It’s an area in the shadow of Mt Vesuvius and near the Sarno River.
The volcanic soil in the area produces a sweeter, less-acidic tomato – which has the DOP (Denominazione d’Origine Protteta) designation.
They are a smaller and longer version of the roma tomatoes … which I have had no luck with in the home garden. Cherry tomatoes have been the go-to because of their heavy fruiting and resistance to insects.
As with any tomato you can eat them straight off the vine or serve with lettuce and feta cheese – and maybe sprinkled with parsley then drizzled with olive oil.
“There are not many fruits that you can eat raw in salads and cooked in many different dishes,’’ was one of the comments on the night. “That could be in casseroles, with pasta, pizza or as gravy.’’
Some suggest a really good tomato sandwich with pesto mayonnaise. Otherwise, cooked or heated in the oven until roasted or sun-dried.
My love of them goes back to on a Sao biscuit with salt and pepper and a sprig of parsley. Then there were the tomato sandwiches for afternoon tea at cricket, cut into four and with chopped onion or parsley
Yet probably my favourite dish was one that mum used to cook at the farm, which was chopped onions and tomatoes, topped with breadcrumbs and then baked in the oven.
Then again, others spoke about tomatoes served with a nice piece of eye fillet – and of course as a good tomato base in bolognaise or a lasagne.
AROUND THE WORLD WITH TOMATOES
Noosa Red tomatoes are thought to have been established in the late 1990s- early 2000s, with Peter Seghers considering himself the third or fourth owner of the brand.
The farm at Doonan has a history of growth and expansion, especially from the days of Russ Parbery and Richard McDonald.
Peter and Dory took over the brand in 2012 and have always been a part of the community, known for the quality of the produce and being ready to lend support.
Coming from a third-generation tomato-growing family in Belgium, Peter has an extensive experience in the industry.
His background in hydroponics, a technique that uses less water and fewer resources, has been instrumental in the farm’s success.
The tomatoes are grown in a controlled glasshouse system without the use of chemicals, and a focus on natural methods for pest and disease management.
The farm grows a range of tomato varieties, including various cherry tomatoes and rugged heirloom types.
“I’m 65 years old now,’’ Peter told me, “… so I’ve been going for 50 years.
“I started in Ostbelgien – Eastern Belgium – with mum and dad on the farm. They specialised in flowers, lettuce and tomatoes – a mixed vegetable operation then slowly moved more to specialising in tomatoes. “That meant building more modern greenhouses – with heating – and then later on, hydroponics and irrigation.’’
Peter left the family farm at 27 and started his own business. But it was a bad time in the ’90s and technology was rapidly evolving .
It was a case of having to invest a lot of money to stay in business. At the same time a lot of tomatoes were coming in from Spain and Morocco.
It was a matter of get big or get out, he said.
“A lot of young people were in the same boat. The prices collapsed and you can only sell below cost price for so long.
“Then there was a free trade agreement. There was the European Union but it only comprised of about nine countries at that time.
“I had to make a decision to get out or borrow more … and that was out of the question.’’
So Peter travelled to the other side of the world – first to New Zealand.
There are not many places in the world you can go unless you have the money to start a business, he said. Apart from Australia and New Zealand.
“Australia was too hot and harsh, and I didn’t think it was tomato-growing country. So I chose New Zealand – it was more like a European climate.’’
With a reputation for working hard he picked up a job at Māngere, a southern suburb of Auckland.
It was with PTO Growers, a significant hothouse vegetable and packing business.
“They were the first to grow hydroponic tomatoes in New Zealand,’’ Peter said, “and they knew I had good knowledge in that field.
“They took me on board without hesitation and it wasn’t long before I was managing quite a few properties for them.
“They were the biggest in New Zealand at the time – they had huge plans of expanding and investing heavily in hydroponics and greenhouses.’’
Peter was very grateful they took him on and help get established with a two-year working visa.
In the meantime, he was able to save up to get a car and travel around to see other parts of New Zealand, particularly the South Island.
“Man, that was nice,’’ he said. “I fell in love with it, particularly around Blenheim.
“There was a greenhouse there and I knocked on the door … it was Peter Blackmore.
“He laughed when I introduced myself.’’
Peter Blackmore is described as a down-to-earth former tomato grower based among the vineyards of the Marlborough area of the South Island.
“He said: ’I know you … because when you came into the country and started with PTO growers, I wanted you to come and start with me’.’’
“When I met him on his own farm, that’s when he burst out laughing and said I could start straight away.“
Why Peter chose a lifetime with tomatoes is quite simple. He grew up with them and just loves working with the plants.
“I love eating them too. I eat them every day.
“It’s a rewarding plant and it’s hardy in many ways. You can grow them in all conditions.
“Through the years the cross-breeding means the big farms are increasing productivity but they are losing their hardiness and flavour somewhat.’’
Peter prides himself on growing good flavoured tomatoes that are resistant to diseases. Yet with persistent rain the plants suffer.
It was at Blenheim that Peter met and married Dory.
Things just clicked between them but things changed at his work so Peter switched to another farm who was growing lettuce and herbs, as well as tomatoes, for restaurants in the neighbourhood.
They needed a manager as the the two boys loved being on their tractor and didn’t want to run the greenhouses.
“That got me a bit more interested in supplying restaurants, directly to chefs,’’ Peter said. “It was my first experience and I was interested in the quality of the taste that they wanted.
“The greenhouse builder was constructing one in Bundaberg as well, and asked if I wanted a job in Australia.
“At first, I said no … there are too many snakes and it’s too hot. I don’t want to go there.
“But he gave my phone number to the farmer in Bundaberg and he said I had to come to Australia now. He had an aeroplane ticket.’’
Peter told Dory he would go for a couple of weeks just to see how it goes.
“It gave me an opportunity as I was not paying for my flight. But he gave me a ute and stuck me in an apartment at Bargara, right on the beach, and I thought: ’Oh man. What could be better than this?’
“So I rang Dory and told her to start packing.
Peter started working for that farmer and he was in the process of building 2ha of tomato greenhouses, to be grown with hydroponics.
The thing was he was an outdoor farmer, not a greenhouse farmer, and he needed someone to run it and show him what needed to be done.
“He was a real Aussie,’’ Peter said, “and I worked for him for maybe 17-18 months and in that time he understood that he could do everything himself.
“I was one day without a job when a farmer was growing cucumbers across 8ha.
“The word had got around that I was good with tomatoes but I’d never grown cucumbers.’’
The farmer said: ’Never mind, I want to talk to you. It’s a different plant but it’s the same. The basics are the same. It doesn’t matter what you grow.’
“It was an experience and I had more staff to run as well as help in the office. Seventy people was a lot to manage and at the same time doing the growing.
“The farm was in bad shape but things are just the same as to what to give your plants.’’
When things outside of the business that were away from Peter’s control impacted his situation, he switched to another cucumber farmer but eventually went to South Australia to work for a big company to the north of Adelaide.
There was modern equipment, greenhouses with air-conditioning and they need managers to run it.
However, it was different working for a corporate structure and Peter wanted to be a grower, not a supervisor – not a manager who has to sit in the office and do the bookwork all of the time.
“That’s not the farming I am used to. I’m a hands-on farmer … and that’s how I ended up in Noosa.
“Some people involved in property had bought a tomato farm in Eumundi and they wanted someone to manage the place.
“There was a third business partner and I helped to set it all up then made sure that everything was running okay.
“That was for a couple of years. It was a 2ha property, but it was manageable.’’
Then there was another tomato grower who heard Peter was running the place and wondered if he could share a bit of knowledge.
Peter gave him some advice and it turned out he was Richard McDonald from Noosa Reds.
“He came to the farm and said: ’I want to talk to you because you’re knowledgeable. Can give my manager a hand … a rundown on how to improve the business?’
“Afterwards Richard asked what he owed me.
“Just give me a bag of tomatoes … you don’t have to pay me.
“He was surprised – a bag of tomatoes to give advice. He couldn’t believe it.’’
Peter did it for quite a while – backwards and forwards whenever Richard needed advice.
“It was just down the road. It wasn’t that far. It was a pleasure to do business with him.
“Nothing is a secret in farming. You learn from each other.
“Then one day he called me and I thought he wanted more advice, but he didn’t go to the greenhouse.
“He said: ’Peter. I don’t want to carry on with this. I just want to get out. Would you be interested in this?’
“I said no, I don’t have the money to buy it.
“Richard said: ’No, I’m giving it to you. I want to go into a nursing career.’’
That saw Richard enrol in a nursing science degree at University of the Sunshine Coast to fulfil a childhood ambition of helping people.
So it came about that Peter and Dory took over Noosa Reds. They agreed on a lease.
For Peter, it was an opportunity to have his own business again.
That was the whole philosophy behind it for him. To have his own business and provide quality produce to the community.
By helping Richard, in return he helped Peter. And Noosa Reds continues to be one of the strongest brands in Noosa.
“You don’t realise it’s happening at the time.
“I’m probably the fourth person to do Noosa Reds – there was Richard and Russ but I don’t know who started it.
“Richard had it for seven years and I’ve had it for 13 years now, so between me and Richard there’s been a good relationship.’’
It’s this co-operation between farmers that has seen Peter and Dory be willing contributors of their tomatoes to the community.
The response to the five chefs dinner showed how important good food and strong community belief can be.
“It’s very overwhelming,’’ Peter said. “We knew we had a good following. Good customers.
“People love tomatoes… … but this support is amazing.’’
This is what happens when people realise the farming industry in general is in trouble.
“It’s been an unusually wet season,’’ Peter said, “and we lost three crops in a row.
“That is a challenge both financially and mentally.
“We never look to mass production. On purpose, we stay very small so it is manageable and supply local customers.
“That was why Noosa Reds originally started. And I’ve carried it on, at the same time focusing on taste and quality.
“Bigger is only more headaches and what is money at the end of the day?
“If you grow something you can pick it – that gives you satisfaction.
“I experienced that in New Zealand, when I was growing food for the restaurants. Their response was amazing.
“When I had the opportunity to take over Noosa Reds, it was the same as what happened there. I was talking to chefs, and it’s the same here in Noosa.
“The relationship with the chefs is just amazing.’’
For Peter, his favourite way to enjoy tomatoes is fresh from the vine.
“Just eat them,’’ he said. “It’s the best.
“My favourite tomato is just a normal, round, traditional red tomato.
“We buy in the seeds. You need tomatoes that are tolerant of disease.’’
I suggested that with orchids, less care is better. So is it the same with tomatoes?
They like the Mediterranean climate. Low humidity is best, such as areas in South Australia and the Murray River in the north of Victoria.
It’s a challenge in Queensland. Particularly in our summer because of the humidity that increases the risk of mildew.
Tomatoes need to be harvested in a ripe stage, Peter said.
They can be preserved for a long time and ripened in a warm area, but if you harvest them too early they lose their flavour.
When people comment on the taste of Noosa Reds, that is when Peter is especially happy.
“We focus on quality and taste, but you can only have that if you let them ripen on the vine.
“That is the importance of being local. You can harvest today and have them straight to the customer.
“That is the beauty of them, that is how you get a good-tasting tomato.’’
There are thousands of varieties – varying in size, color, shape, and flavour. But it’s the time when you take the first bite, and experience a taste like you haven’t known before, that you understand the value of home-grown tomatoes and farmers such as Peter.
